Thursday, April 29, 2010

Cars, Canterbury, Chinese lap guitars, Chandlers and Capel-le-Ferne

Lot’s of C’s. Well the car I’ll review later but as you remember we landed in England at Dover and not Gatwick as planned and Gatwick is where our car was waiting patiently for us. We managed to get a ride there with my Aunt and Uncle who were trying to get back to France. They finally did through the tunnel a few days later. After much ado with paperwork, the rental company’s computer was overloaded due to the huge influx of rentals, we got a Chevrolet Matiz which, I might just review later in the blog. After we dropped Aunt and Uncle in Worthing S and I returned to Dymchurch through the countryside. East Sussex and Kent still get my vote for one of the best scenery in the world. That is until you leave Tenterden on the road to Appledore. All of a sudden you are faced with what used to be a nice view of Romney Marsh, as bleak as it is, now blighted by multiple wind turbines to make electricity. Such a shame. However, it was a nice drive over very familiar ground. Somehow it all seemed much closer together than it used to.




Our next adventure in the car, which has now been dubbed the “Washing Machine” was to Canterbury. When I was a kid I used to dread trips to this small city as it meant trudging around shops getting clothes and shoes for “back to school” purposes. However, nowadays we love going there. Cantabs is filled with history and has played a very important roll in shaping British history right from Roman times. The head of the Church of England, the Arch Bishop of Canterbury, for example. Chaucer’s exceedingly droll and somewhat rude tales are centered on a pilgrimage to Canterbury and there has been much intrigue over the ages. Nowadays it still enthralls with charming side streets and little boutiques, the Weavers restaurant with its ducking stool for naughty witches, the cathedral (of course) and city wall remains, and European influenced cafes and bars. It was on one such cafĂ© patio, enjoying a lovely latte served by an equally lovely Czech waitress (I know because I asked) that S and I watched a Chinese bloke set up what looked like a steel guitar, speakers the whole 9 yards. After a bit of tuning he inserted a cd and started to play along with it. Now it wasn’t too bad, just totally out of place, but it was loud and he only knew 2 tunes. He was still playing the same 2 tunes 2 hours later when we walked passed on our way to the bus station. The fact I even mention it is that it was actually quite terrible and it is a credit to the people of Canterbury that they tolerate this racket in their beautiful city. The astute of you will have noticed the words bus station; yes we did drive but Canterbury has a wonderful park and ride scheme. You park on the outskirts of town and ride the bus in, all for a modest fee. In return the city center is less congested with traffic and overall way more enjoyable.


From Canterbury we drove down the A2 to Dover for a quick look in Sharp and Enright. This is a chandlers that has been in business a long time, in fact I expect they sold D shackles to the romans. The shop is a gold mine of sailing junk the likes of which you just don’t see other places. It’s not too far from here in Capel-le-Ferne that one of the most tasteful and pleasant (and surprisingly free) monuments to the pilots of the Battle of Britain exists. As you park and walk over there are replicas of a Spitfire and Hurricane fighter planes. Then built right into the white cliffs is a giant propellor with a large statue of a pilot sitting on the hub staring across the English Channel as if looking for fallen comrades. Behind the statue is a wall with the names of the fallen pilots from that battle. We stood on the edge of the cliffs for a while enjoying the English spring sunshine and contemplating the memorial on which we stood.

Party!!

It’s not everyday, or often at all for that matter, that people get married and stick with it for 50 years. Initially I think they stuck together as neither wanted custody of my brother or me! Actually, the love my parents have for each other has always been an inspiration to us and I mentioned that in the toast I proposed at the dinner on Sunday. We have never eaten so much in two days, ever. It was great to see a lot of family that we haven’t seen in a long time and my parents neighbours that not only keep an eye on my parents but also welcome us with open arms.

Tuesday, April 20, 2010

Unplanned Tour de France



Unbeknownst to us a volcano had errupted in Iceland and has covered European airspace in a fine glass like dust.  Now the Europeans are a cautious lot and they banned all flights.  We didn’t find this out until we got to the airport on Friday morning, nice and early, for our flight to Gatwick.  I guess there were some clues - the hotel was full the night before and there were only 2 other people on the airport shuttle.  So with some time pressure to get to the UK, i.e. we had to be there for my parents party - the whole reason for going, we decided to rent a car and drive to Calais and catch a boat to Dover.  What could be easier?  The only map we had was a 3"x5" all of France map in the Lonely Planet guide so I purchased a whole of France 3 ft x 3 ft map.  If nothing else it was in colour.  We had some tea and headed off with 1000 kms to do by supper time.

I must say the drive was excellent.  The French roads are in very good shape - funded by tolls and income taxes - and the scenery was, very French.  Through the Dordogne being our favourites.  My technique for navigating Paris was to trust in the fact that there may be road signs pointing north or to Belgium.  Even better, when we did get there, there were in fact signs pointing to the A1 Lille which is the road we needed.  We pulled into Calais around 7.30pm.

At this point I breathed a sigh of relief in that I thought we’d made it.  Usually you turn up, buy a ticket and hop on the next convenient boat.  Well as it happens, there are some other equally desperate travelers and the queue was 3 hours long to get a ticket.  I was quite cold too standing outside in the chill sea breeze.  Luckily Sally managed to find us some lasagne and yucky coffee.

We got to the front of the queue at about 11.45pm and just got on the boat.  I was late leaving as P&O levered more people on board in a Dunkerque like evacuation.  Everyone was very good natured and humoured about the whole thing; they had to be really but complete strangers were lending phones and buying less fortunates coffee etc.

We got on board, found a seat and ordered 2 beers which we immediately consumed.  We got 2 more but Sally fell asleep.  Somewhere between Calais and Dover her beer evaporated.  The rest of the journey went well.  Dad picked us up, just like he had done 20 years before when Sally and I went on cross channel hops regularly.  The whole of the Sands Estate Emergency Response team had been swung into action.  A ride home, tea was waiting and my parents neighbours had our room ready with clean towels.  I was asleep before Sally had showered - but we had made it.

Thursday, April 15, 2010

Toulouse

Toulouse - we left Agen d’Aveyron and have been left to our own devices in Toulouse where Sally and I are doing our best to improve Canadian-French relations.  Toulouse is a beautiful city, airy, pretty and with lots of neat things to see and do.  We’ve been on two marathon walks and covered a lot of ground; basically everything the Lonely Planet guide recommends.  We went to the Musee des Augustins, Marchee Victor Hugo, Les Abottoirs (a modern art gallery) as well as walked around Basilique St-Sernin, the bridges of St-Pierre and Pont Neuf where we relaxed on the banks of the Garonne with hordes of snogging students.

We both really enjoyed the two art galleries we saw today.  The  old masters - Rubens, Lautrec etc.at the Musee des Augustins in juxtaposition to the modern art at Les Abottoirs was quite the comparison.  S said it got the effect in that we talked about both equally.  The astounding realism of the old and the jarring fantasies of the new.

We are now about to head out to the Frog and Rosbif pub.  They have unique home made beers and free internet access!
http://www.frogpubs.com/english-pub.php?pub=5

Tomorrow we fly to the UK.  We’ve just got the hang of speaking francais!!!

Tuesday, April 13, 2010

Millau

Millau - famous of course for the fantastic viaduct that spans the Tarn gorge.  It truly is a modern wonder of the world.  However the town itself is also very pleasant and could easily occupy a tourist for a day or two.  The drive in always thrills me (the two times I’ve been here) in that the trees have been severely pollarded.  I like the effect of this and the knobbly look of the trees, it also keeps them well under control.  In Millau we visited the Mussee de Millau which among other interesting artifacts contains a glove museum.  This has some gloves through time but even more fascinating is the manufacturing process.  I was amazed just how much stretch there is in leather and most of it has to be removed before the gloves are made.  Truly an art form.
The streets are filled with little boutiques and poking around them is fun although we were mightily disappointed that the Passion Lingerie shop had closed up.  In an antique store James spotted a Laguoile knife which was highly desirable - I desired it, so I got it.

Marcillac - Aveyron

Well here we are, in France, in the spring, what could be better?

Our journey was interesting to say the least but highly successful.  So let’s skip the boring travel details and get on to the nuts and bolts.

Marcillac-Vallon is a neat market town north-east of Rodez.  Sunday is market day so that’s where we went.  The drive there is wonderful through the hills, with quaint villages en route.  The main street of the town is closed off for the market and vendors sell everything from the famous Laguiole knives, food, fabrics and oysters.  Sally has to have oysters.  We tried some of the local fast food - a sort of onion bargee with pork called a fasouse (think that’s right).  I needed some cash so I bravely inserted my Visa card into the ATM having previously questioned my Uncle on the wording that may appear on the screen.  To my surprise it all came up in English and even spewed out the required amount of Euros.  Of course some wine teasting was required before heading back to Salles-la-Source which, as you can imagine from the name, is the source of some water which tumbles over the cliff in a very picturesque way.  The whole village is built on a steep hill and is the sort of place you see in holiday brochures but in fact you can never find.  I is the sort of place Sally and I could easily retire to and live happily ever after.

Now I won’t talk too much about the food because S will on her food blog.  However, we did get oysters and I tried two.  The second was better than the first but it’ll take a while for me to acquire the taste.  In the meantime S was barely visible behind the pile of shells from which she had slurped down the contents from within.

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We currently live in Canada and have been here for the last 18 years or so. We both like adventures of all sorts and wish we had more time to pursue this habit.